Black Basics

by Gaye Goodman on November 10, 2009

We recently had two separate clients who wanted the drama of black floors throughout their homes. I hope this does not signal a new trend towards black floors. We usually try to talk people out of this by showing them how attractive black stain can look when it is diluted in half with acid water to a variegated gray-brown color. The problem is that it’s a constant struggle to keep black floors looking decent. Each dusty footprint and every bit of sand which blows in through the door will show up white against the dark background. We warn client s that they will need to dust mop their floors daily. However, both parties were adamant and chose the darkest of the samples we did for them.

During our first job, set in a splendid high valley in Colorado, we discovered even more problems which crop up with black floors, creating a good deal more work for the staining crew. I will take problems and solutions in the order in which they occurred.

Photo A (stain pullback).jpgFirst, no matter how well we sand and scrub a slab in preparation for staining, we find that the stain usually pulls back from the cracks in the slab, which emphasizes them and makes them look wider than they are. Photo A shows how this effect is heightened when the color chosen is black. We find this happens more often with the large cracks we have filled, but also with hairline cracks which we do not fill. If you have seen my DVD’s you know that we use tiny syringes to inject the cracks with concrete glue prior to filling and take every care NOT to smear glue on either side of the crack, since we know that the glue will repel our stain. The edges along cracks DO take stain, but it is usually several shades paler than the rest of the floor. My hunch is that when a slab cracks, it lifts a tiny bit along both sides of the crack, causing the wet stain to roll away, like water down the sides of a mountain range.

Photo B.jpgIn this residence we applied two coats of solvent-based acrylic sealer and left the site for fourmonths while plasterers and stone masons finished some walls and countertops were installed. The builder protected the floors wall-to-wall with rosin paper and laid sheets of cardboard over the entire area. This prevented damage by abrasion to the sealer but there was still a thick layer of dust under the paper which we needed to clean up when we returned to apply the acrylic final finish. Photo B shows how the floors looked when we got back to the site.

Solvent sealers have what is called “dirt pick-up” – an almost magnetic attraction for dust – until the final finish is applied. Each room must be vacuumed meticulously with a top quality vacuum, then damp-mopped with frequent changes of water before it will be clean enough to seal. If you try to clean too large an area, the portion you have just cleaned will become white with dust by the time you have finished cleaning the next section. Floor cleaners must wear booties and avoid walking back over dusty areas, or they become a part of the problem.

When we got each room clean enough to see the floor clearly, another problem became apparent. A white ring of efflorescence followed the pale edge of every tiny crack which we had not filled. This was a surprise to us all, since the house was built on a hilltop and the builder had installed a moisture-vapor barrier under the slab.  Such a small amount of calcium carbonate coming to the surface would probably not have shown against a paler shade of stain. Open expanses in the kitchen and living-room were laced with a network of white bordered cracks, like those seen in Photo C.

PhotoC.jpgWe tried the “easy fix” first, rubbing the white stuff off with lacquer thinner or xylene on a rag. This erased some of it, but large areas were trapped under the upper layer of sealer, which had to be rubbed completely through. As we thought about it, we realized that unless we filled every one of the hairline cracks, more efflorescence would surely emerge through them after future rains and snowfalls. We had to bite the bullet and fill every minute crack in the house before we could begin to faux paint away the lines of efflorescence.

For post-stain crack filling we use DAP or Custom Home Builders’ latex crack filler, which comes in a soft plastic tube. We squeeze it out on a paper plate and press it into the cracks with a flexible spatula and wipe the excess away from the sides of the crack with a damp rag. These fillers are smooth and fine-grained and can fill the tiniest crack. They are bright white, however, so we mixed some dark brown-black artist’s acrylic paint into the latex filler with a palette knife before pressing it into the cracks. We knew this would save us time later in the touch-up phase.

After a long day filling cracks they looked better, but opaque and not patterned like the rest of the floor, as in Photo D. You can see from the next shot (E) that the floor was by no means a solid black color, but had a pattern of darker raindrops and blobs scattered against a lighter background shade.  This is the sort of wonderful natural patterning which makes stained concrete so special and endearing to us. But it meant that in order to render the cracks less visible, we had to work in layers from the bottom up, with the top layer of faux paint being a translucentblack applied in raindrop fashion with a tiny round artist’s brush.  It took two artists 24 hours of mixing and dabbing to bring all the filled areas into harmony with the rest of the floor.

Photo DandE.jpgEven with gloss medium added to the acrylic paint, it dries much less glossy than the rest of the solvent-sealed floor. To bring everything up to the same durability and level of gloss, we had to roll on a fresh coat of solvent sealer, let it gas off for 36 hours, and then apply our two coats of Terra Glaze Final Finish.

Guess what? Despite locked doors and restricted traffic zones during the gas-off period, the floors had to be wiped down with microfiber covered mops several times more before we could apply the final finish.  

Photo F shows the kitchen floor, finished at last.  We really liked the conscientious builder and the owners of this home, so we did not have the heart to charge them for four extra days of cleaning and faux painting, but we are quite glad that these black floors are now their responsibility.  On the drive home we decided that we would charge extra the next time a client wants black floors!

PhotoF.jpg

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Va-Voom! A New Stripper Hits Town

by Gaye Goodman on April 22, 2009

We have discovered a great floor stripper which may open up new jobs for you and will certainly make the whole process somewhat easier. My crew really dislikes re-doing other people’s botched floors. However, in the current economy, those are the jobs we are getting and we are only too glad to have them!

One of my favorite custom home builders called me in to see the floors of his own home which he had stained by his house painter before he knew much about acid staining.  The painter actually did a fine job on the floor prep and staining, but he was given bad advice on which sealer to purchase. He was sold a “urethane enhanced acrylic” which was meant for wood floors. It looked beautiful for the first few months, but began to flake and peel in the traffic areas for the next nine years. This builder has two active children, a frantic dervish-dog, and an artist wife who paints in one room.

I did some test stripping in a corner of his study. I have found it does not pay to base your stripping estimate on a test done on the flaking areas, so I selected a secluded spot where the sealer appeared completely intact. I thought I was simply dealing with a cheap water-based acrylic. We often use a janitorial wax stripper on these with good success. That did not touch it. Next I tried a strong citrus cleaner, letting it soak for 20 minutes, then scrubbing hard. It only penetrated in a few high spots. When my client put me in touch with the local sales outlet for his sealer and I spoke with them, it was clear they had no idea how to remove it.

I sure didn’t want to turn down this large job, but the client wanted me to remove the impermeable sealer and replace it without removing the stain from the floor, since he was in love with the look of the original. That meant that sanding or removing the cream layer of the slab was not an option. I recalled that my friend and staining colleague, John Rodriguez, had been urging me to try a new low-VOC stripper which he had been using lately. He had provided me with some half-pint sample bottles which I had stashed in my truck and forgotten about.

Thumbnail image for Thumbnail image for 1. A  Photo of Stripper.jpgI got out the bottle of thick, gooey Newlook Easystrip 1000 and tried mixing it with warm water before applying it to the floor. It did not seem to mix with water at all, so it must be meant to be brushed on full strength. It appears a lot like liquid latex rubber. I spread it on thinly and waited 15 minutes. Voila! It ate right through that tough sealer and darkened the concrete. John told me it could be sprayed on large areas or rolled on with a paint roller. It remains thick and must be scraped up with a wide razor scraper. Once most of the glop is wiped onto old rags, the residue can be scrubbed away with a TSP solution and a black pad on the rotary buffer.  (The web address for this product is www.getnewlook.com).

I bought a five-gallon pail and we set to work on the builder’s house while he took his family on vacation. We soon found that by applying Easystrip 1000 full strength to a dry or even a dampened floor, we were wasting a lot of product which sat on the surface and did not penetrate well. There was a lot of scraping involved and many spots of old sealer remained. It took us four hours to do one bedroom this way.

Thumbnail image for 1. Egg drop soup poured on floor.jpgRemembering that we were working in an extremely dry desert climate, we decided to ignore the instructions and mix the stripper 1:1 with warm water to increase penetration. Once it was stirred in a bucket, it did not want to mix with the water, but looked like Chinese egg drop soup. We poured this on the floor and spread it out with a rapid circular motion using a Doodle-bug pad and holder. After some brushing the stripper mixed with the water and turned into something which covered the floor evenly with a shaving cream consistency. We let it soak in for 15 minutes and could tell by the even darkening of the floor when it was ready to be removed. We gathered most of it3.jpg together with a large floor squeegee and wiped it onto rags. A subsequent TSP scrub removed most of the residue, but we did two such scrubs to remove every bit from edges and corners. The second bedroom, done in this manner, took us half as long as the first.

This house had nice white enameled baseboards in every room. We always mask these with three layers of tape when stripping floors. We use a medium-tack tape along the very lowest edge to the floor, then another layer goes on with the masking plastic when we use the masking machine, and finally we try to “waterproof” the lowest edge by putting a band of two-inch colored stucco tape on top. Invariably we find that fluid strippers like citrus cleaner tend to puddle against the walls and creep up under all these layers, holding the stripper against the wall, so the walls get partially stripped also.

I warn my clients in advance that they will probably have to repaint their baseboards. A wonderful side-effect of using a thick stripper like Easystrip 1000 is that it does not flow. Most of the stain color in the floor was also left intact. This might be a fluke. I have never before stripped sealer and had any color left to speak of. When we removed our masking after restaining a few gray spots and doing a post-stain scrub, we found the painted baseboards in pristine condition. That seemed like a small miracle to me!

Thumbnail image for 5. Refinished Living Room Floor.jpgSoon after this experience we had another remodel. The clients removed their living-room carpet and wanted us to stain the concrete floor underneath. There were the usual wide bands of carpet pad glue in snaking lines bordering the walls. We were able to get a good portion of the glue off with a citrus cleaner soak. We found that the Easystrip (which is really made for paints and sealers) did not remove glue on the first pass, but after most of it was lifted by means of citrus scrubbing, it worked very well to loosen the remainder of glue which was deep in the pores of the slab. After some wire-brushing on these areas, we removed more carpet pad glue than we had ever been able to do before.

Newlook also makes an Easystrip 2000 which is meant to remove epoxies. We have not tried that yet, and sincerely hope we will not have to.

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The Labyrinth

February 18, 2009

Last spring we were hired by an Episcopal Cathedral in downtown Albuquerque for a job which was completely new to us. They were redesigning an outdoor area which was surrounded on three sides by the old church building. The fourth side featured a wrought iron gateway which gave onto the city sidewalk and could be [...]

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Gaye’s new video–Coming Soon!

October 21, 2008

If you have ever wished you could land really big jobs, twenty, thirty, fifty-thousand square feet or more, but were worried about the risks and didn’t really know how to play the game at that level, then this post will be very good news for you.

My newest video, called “Acid Staining for Commercial [...]

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Latex Rubber with no Kinks

April 11, 2008

I don’t know about you, but most of the contractors in the city of Albuquerque are starting to feel squeezed by the building slowdown which has been in progress around the country for several years now.  We used to have the luxury of turning down requests to acid stain backyard patios and garages, preferring the [...]

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Slaving Away in Sunny New Zealand

March 2, 2008

 (Photo 1 is of Roy and Jose in their garden).       

I apologize for announcing my new blog, then being slow to begin it. I recently returned from a five-week trip to spectacular New Zealand. Since my floor staining business is slow in December and January that is when I schedule my vacation trips. This year I [...]

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